Saturday 31 October 2015

Day 5 Kytra Locks to Corran Ferry, Ardour

Moy swingbridge
Cycleway over River Lochy, Fort William
It was a bad night's sleep, with heavy rain and wind. A peg had pulled out in the night, and the sleeping bag and gear at the tent foot was wet. I missed the alarm, and didn't get away much before 8am, fully waterproofed up in the rain. At least it was still mild, so I dispensed with the gloves. The compacted gravel of the towpath was fine to cycle, though the headwind was already up and running. The east side of Loch Oich followed the extinct Fort William to Fort Augustus railway, the first of many on the trip. After another section of towpath the route then followed another rough forestry track on the west side of Loch Laggan, and a big rock on a descent caused puncture number two, no fun in strong winds and rain. I was glad to regain the towpath at Gairlochy, and I stopped to read some info boards on the commandos, who had practised their landings in the area, under a hail of live ammunition which apparently didn't miss by much!
Camusnaguel Ferry
The rain finally called it a day, though the headwind was happy to keep going, and Ben Nevis cleared enough to reveal snow still left over from the previous winter. A short road section led to a cycle path into Fort William, where I stocked up on sandwiches before heading down to a small quay to catch the Camusnagaul Ferry across Loch Linnhe to the Ardour Peninsula. Here the NCN78 follows the quiet single lane A861, rather than the busy A82 on the east side of the loch. It was a blissful 17km, and I met just one car.
I booked in to the Ardour Inn near the Corran Ferry; it was time for a bit of comfort, plus I had a match to watch. It was the rugby world cup final, and after living in New Zealand for over twenty years an All Blacks-Wallabies showdown was something I didn't want to miss!
Before the match started I converted the bedroom into a drying room, with bits of kit hanging from every protuberance, and a tent erected at the bed foot, and watched the first half lying on the bed before heading down to the bar for a couple of pints of Guinness and the second half. After the match I had an hour's dozing back in the room, then went back to the bar for a meal. I thought for a minute I was hallucinating: the bar was full of zombies. Then I remembered it was Halloween, and relaxed.

Day stats 65km 720 Metres of ascent
Off road 37km 
A road 17km (all single lane)
B road 10km (6km single lane B road)
Unclassified road 1km


The Inn, Ardour



Friday 30 October 2015

Day 4 Kirkhill to Kytra Locks

First puncture
The plan was to join the Great Glen Way at Abriachan then follow it all the way to Fort Augustus, 60km away. Expected to arrive early afternoon........took a little longer than expected. Downhill to Inchmore, then up Knockbain Hill, through South Clunes to the GGW, quite a grind. Weather still good though. The full Great Glen Cycle Route is now extinct. The section between Fort Augustus and Inverness now goes along  the roads on the east side of Loch Ness, so it was no surprise to have to lift the panniers and Horse over the first gate. The road was pretty rough, and I had the first puncture of the trip on the descent to Corryfoyness. It wasn't bad going though and the road tourer coped, though I did dismount during one step descent where I met three bikers with knobby tyres and hybrids pushing the other way. I had a coffee in Drumnadrochit, checked out the Loch Ness submarine, then headed up the path beyond Lewiston where some muddy sections had the wheels spinning. The way then joins a minor road, where I noticed the bike computer was showing zero for the day. I couldn't work out what had happened, then realised that as I'd collapsed onto the handlebars dry-retching I'd lain on the computer and zeroed it!
Tracks near Drumnadrochit
 The road to Grotaig was a relative delight, then it was off road again on some lovely single track through the forest, all fine on the road bike. There were great views of Loch Ness. Then the track split into two options: the high route and the low route. I picked the high route on the grounds that I'd do less climbing. Mistake. The path reared up and there was a bit of pushing before the descent to Invermoriston, also not easy due to the numerous open drainage channels, and brakes that had gone on strike. Boot rubber was gainfully employed. The River Moriston was looking very picturesque with the autumn colours.
The ascent from Invermoriston was somewhat taxing, before reaching a forest road and easier going. Another High Route-Low Route choice had me wisely opting for the latter, though there were still enough hills to bring me to the edge of despair.  Then it was down to the loch side and into Fort Augustus where I went straight to the campsite in anticipation of good food and beer. It was shut. No wonder they hadn't replied to my queries.

The Loch Ness submarine
Darkness was fast approaching, so I wolfed down some fish and chips then headed off along the Caledonian Canal in the dark. I almost came to grief as a startled deer bolted from the canalside across the towpath, and was very happy to reach the Kytra Locks camp a few k's from Fort Augustus.
I put the tent up in double quick time, then asked a lady who was walking her dog if there was a water tap nearby. She was staying in a holiday home right on the locks, so offered water and a cup of tea as well. I gave her my "mug", which made her laugh. It was a plastic one litre measuring jug! I was completely bagled; it had been a really tiring day, with a lot of climbing and some muddy sections that were difficult to cycle. I was really pleased to have only pushed a couple of hundred metres.

Day stats 64km 1566 Metres of ascent
Off road 39km 
A road 4km 
B road 2km 
Unclassified road 19km

Wednesday 28 October 2015

Day 3 Rhian Bridge to Kirkhill

River Shin
Evanton-Dingwall back road
The kettle was on by 6am, but I was a bit lethargic and didn't get on the road until 7.20. It was a drab morning and I was lit up like a Christmas tree with 2 front lamps and 4 flashing red rear ones!  It wasn't much of a downhill to Lairg, and the headwind was already blowing despite the early hour. Although everything was blanketed in cloud I had a cheery 'Lovely morning!' from a local. Maybe this was good weather for Lairg! I crossed the river for a back road past the Falls of Shin, then a brief bit of A road before crossing the river via a pedestrian way that had been clipped onto the side of the Inver Shin railway bridge. This led to a lovely off road to Culrain Station, then a quiet backroad to Ardgay and a coffee in the cafe. Rather than follow the A road to Tain I took the B9176, the turn-off ominously signed as Struie Hill. Hill roads don't normally get their own name, so I expected the worst, but in fact it wasn't too bad and I made it to the viewpoint with one rest. There was no view though, despite it being a 'Lovely morning!' The traffic was surprisingly busy, and the occasional inconsiderate driver made the leg more stressful than it should have been. It was nice to have a big downhill into clearer weather, and then a traffic-free cycle path into Evanston where I stopped for some malt loaf and energy drink in the village centre. There's no off road route from Evanton to Dingwall, but the back road was really quiet, and it wasn't long before I was through Dingwall and on the cycle path over the Conan River beside the busy A9, then up a wee side road to join the B9169 into Muir of Ord. From there it was a brand new cycle path all the way through Beauly, and over the Lovat Bridge to the turn-off for Kirkhill and home. Apart from the traffic on the Struie Hill it had been a good day. Headwinds not too bad, the third day without rain and home by 2.30 with almost 100 k's under the belt.

Day stats 92km 754 Metres of ascent
Off road 11km
A road 21km (7km single lane A road)
B road 39km (6km single lane B road)
Unclassified road 21km

Tuesday 27 October 2015

Day 2 Loch Leir to Rhian Bridge

It had clouded over in the night and the expected frost hadn't materialised. After tea and instant porridge I was away by 8am, and skirted Sletill Hill on the forest track, and down to Forsinain and the Hallandale River. Occasionally a salmon tail fin would languidly break the surface of the pool beneath the bridge. They probably new it was the close season! A single track A road led up to Forsinard and the RSPB office where I'd arranged to catch up with some of the folk I'd worked with.
I was a bit shocked to see the anti RSPB notices; a few locals were not in favour of the new viewing tower and field centre. After a couple of hours catching up with old faces I continued along the A road before taking the B871 to Strathnaver. There was a sign warning about forestry trucks, but I didn't meet another vehicle for 25 kilometres. The road followed the headwaters of the River Helmsdale. There were no steep impressive mountains, the countryside having more of a rumpled carpet look, desolate and deserted. Above Loch Badanloch I stopped and munched on a malt
loaf while a large herd of young stags eyed me nervously. 'It's alright I'm a vegetarian' I shouted, and they all took off.
The road now veered to the north and I had a welcome tailwind, which turned out to be pretty well the only one of the entire trip! I'd have savoured it more if I'd known. Then it was a descent into Strathnaver, scene of some of the cruellest evictions by the Duke of Sutherland during The Clearances.
A pleasant run down the edge of Loch Naver led to Altnaharra, which shares with Braemar the UK's lowest recorded temperature of -27C. It was only 2pm and too early to call it a day, so I set off up picturesque Strath Vagastie, a single track A road, and the NCN1. The view was dominated by Ben Klibreck, the secondmost northerly Munro, and today the peak was wearing a limpet-like cap of hanging cloud. Near the head of the glen I passed a perfect camping spot next to a terraced waterfall, but instead carried on hoping to find somewhere beyond the bealach, leaving me with a downhill start to the following day. Unfortunately the road turned out to be hemmed in with the debris of cut trees, and it wasn't until Rhian Bridge that I found a flat spot next to the river, a few hundred metres upstream of the bridge.
I cooked up a quick meal, and by 6.30 was fighting sleep while reading, so had a very early night.

Day stats Distance 93km 771 Metres of ascent
Off road 8km
A road single lane 41km
B road single lane 44km

Monday 26 October 2015

Day 1 John o' Groats to Loch Leir

About to leave with 'Horse'
As we drove up from my home near Inverness the car shuddered in the gusts of wind, worsening over the exposed moorland beyond Latheronwheel. Plans to start the trip from Duncansby Head were soon shelved; John o' Groats would do nicely. After the obligatory photo I gave girlfriend Fiona a last hug, and headed off into the headwind at 11am.
Anxious to avoid the main roads as much as I possible I took the backroads, passing Loch Watten, but there were no signs of Wattie, the resident monster that does very well to hide in a loch just 12 feet deep! The B870 led across to the Thurso River, Thor's River of the Orkneyinga Saga, then onto a minor road leading to the forestry tracks that would take me traffic-free through to Forsinain. I'd spent a month in 2011 working as a volunteer at the Forsinard RSPB reserve, and it was nice to pass the lochs where we'd done bird counts back then.
Loch Leir camp, Flow Country
The tracks weren't too potholed, though there was the occasional patch of sand where the bike would come to a rapid stop, and there were a few near-spills. By the time I reached Loch Leir it was getting late and I was ready to call it a day. I camped at the end of track near the loch, and made camp as the temperature rapidly dropped. I made a brew from the loch's already tea-coloured water, followed by an 'eat-from-the-pouch' pasta, and a boil-in-the-bag chocolate pudding which really hit the spot.
A big full moon rose, stags began to roar, and the dimples of rising trout studded the loch. It was a great end to the day.

Day stats: Distance 69km 547 Metres of ascent
Off road 18km
A roads 2km
B roads 22km (Single lane B roads 18km)
Minor roads 26km